A short train ride from Lisbon is the picturesque fishing village of Cascais. In my research, I read you could pick up a bike at the train station upon arrival in Cascias, ride along the ocean and return the bike at the train station in Estoril, before returning to Lisbon. Both villages had been tagged as the most affluent suburbs of Lisbon, sort of the Portuguese Riviera. I had it all pictured in my mind. A nice relaxing afternoon of biking along the waterfront, stopping for a couple of beers and eating the fresh catch of the day.
Well let’s start at the beginning as you will soon learn the picture I had in my mind started to fade fast. As the cab driver departed from the hotel, he insisted he should drive us to Cascais. I think the translation was something along the lines of “no person in their right mind would ride a train.” I insisted we were taking the train and he should continue to the station. I guess he kinda won out when he charged ten euros for the ride when it should have been more like three. The train station was another obstacle as the ticket machines were difficult to understand, even as we watched others go through a very laborious process. Thanks to a young gal who spoke a little English, we finally purchased our tickets. (She knew she needed to do something otherwise she would miss her train if she didn’t!) We arrived at Cascais and guess what? No bikes anywhere. No racks to indicate they were sold out, not one person in site riding a bike, nothing at all relating to a bike. Time to create a new picture.
The pedestrian streets were inviting, paved with stone creating a wavy pattern throughout the town. Numerous restaurants and shops were tucked in every corner imaginable. Visually kind of touristy, but the feeling of local. Only a few hours later would we understand how local.
We enjoyed several Portuguese beers called Super Bock, along with a few small plates of clams and shrimp. Delicious! The outdoor restaurant was perfectly situated overlooking the Atlantic and the best people watching spot imaginable. We could have stayed for hours and we did!
Feeling the effects of the Super Bocks, it was time to wander deeper into the neighborhood and find a nice local spot for dinner. The smell of fish cooking on the grill permeated the whole village. As we passed beautiful mansions and immaculate tree-lined streets, we soon came upon a window with a very friendly chef inside his restaurant preparing the catch of the day. His smile and inviting demeanor sold me right away! We had found our neighborhood restaurant.
Around 10:00 p.m. we headed back towards the train station. Families with children of all ages were streaming out of their homes towards the village center. As we got closer we understood why. Hundreds of people had gathered for an outdoor concert near the ocean. Without even realizing it, we were about to have a very local experience.
Song after song, everyone both young and old knew the words and sang along. It was a festive, family event with the sounds similar to our Elton John or Liberace. After researching the next day, I learned it was their legendary king of pop, Jose Cid. A night and dose of portuguese culture that I will always remember making it to the “top ten” of my favorites of Lisbon!
Thanks for sending me the link! Did not make it to Lisbon for the very same reasons…Found it very touristy but very well kept! Explored the town and found some wonderful quiet places. Music festival as well- it was unfortunately opposite our hotel and was going on until 3h in the morning …we had a flight at 6.30am! We were not amused.
Had a dinner at a small restaurant where I was the only guest! Heaven-i love those places. We had a great conversation using our hands , feets,smiles etc.