welcome to kulen mountain
I don’t think I’ve ever had a day that was filled with so many experiences as this particular day…thus my reason for two parts. So let’s just start at the very beginning of a day long trek on the most sacred holy mountain in Cambodia…Kulen Mountain… A UNESCO World Heritage site, Kulen Mountain is widely regarded as the birthplace of the ancient Khmer Empire (think AD 802) and home to the ethnic people…the Khmer Leu. We started early because of the expected high temperatures, but before we could even make it to the entry steps…my attention was diverted to a man and a small fire…so of course I had to take a peek at what he was doing.
Yep, he was making breakfast! When you’re hungry you make do…and I personally grew up eating squirrel that my father hunted so it was no big deal to me…well except the cooking of the entire body! So see? I knew right away this was going to be one of those days filled with unexpected moments! You won’t find this in a tour book.
As we’re making our way up all those never ending steps we came across a pagoda that was being renovated…and that required a stop to take in the amazing art this gentleman was working on. He told us it took ten days just to draw and carve the trunk of the tree…so one can only imagine how long it will take to complete the entire pagoda. And yes…workers have to carry all the supplies up all those steps! Can’t even imagine…as we saw bags and bags of cement along the way…probably waiting for some poor soul to finish taking them up the mountain. I noticed one bag had 50 kg written on it. Omg..that’s 110 pounds.
I was blown away by the detail…even in the most unexpected places!
And of course I had to take one of those chipped off pieces from the old pagoda…which is now proudly displayed on my outdoor fireplace here in Arizona…
I honestly could’ve just hung out at this pagoda all day and just photographed…but we had to keep moving…coming up on another amazing surprise just a short distance away…a little oasis nestled into the mountain…Preah Ang Choub…complete with the monastery connected to the pagoda that we just experienced. Just approaching it you could fill the coolness in the air as well as a very tranquil feeling…the sound of running water…the lushness of the jungle…all exuding such a welcoming feel.
I said hello to the nun and to my surprise she spoke perfect English…as well as Japanese!…not to mention her native Khmer. She told me her story that she had worked at a local NGO prior to joining the monastery where she now cooks and cleans for the monks. She had two children…her young son living with her and a daughter attending school in Phnom Penh. She had experienced a bad situation in her marriage and felt this was the place for her. Of course she was thrilled with her instant photos and he loved his little toy car. She was such a beautiful soul and once again I could’ve stayed forever…talking to her…photographing…but we had to move on…
As we continued on our way we had to be mindful that there were still a number of landmines in the area, another reason to have a guide to keep us on the main paths and pointed in the right direction. (If you recall in an earlier posting this is the jungle area where our guide fled with his mother to escape the Khmer Rouge and ate bugs to stay alive.) After a rather strenuous hike we finally made our way to one of the eight isolated ethnic hill tribes (Khmer Leu) in the area…all connected with footpaths. As we got closer to the village we passed small shrines and remnants of the Lunar New Year (aka Chinese New Year) which is very much celebrated within Cambodia.
year of the monkey!
Many homes have their kitchens partitioned off from the rest of the house…
and you’ll often see cooked rice being dried…in preparation for some yummy sticky rice creation…
and not sure what the pickled things are in the containers…thinking they could be pickled lemons…but we never saw a lemon there that looked like our lemons back home…
a typical village store…the owner taking a smoke and perhaps just waking up from an afternoon nap in his hammock…and interestingly enough he was watching a DVD which was the last thing I thought we’d see in this isolated area. Just goes to show…where there’s a will…there’s a way!
In a future posting I’ll share more about a typical village and daily life…but like you’ve probably noticed…trash is a constant. In a few villages, there are some measures being taken to educate and encourage a cleaner environment, and I’ll share more later on that as well.
So here we are…not even halfway through our day yet and I might add, extremely hot! So stay tuned for part two where I’ll take you to an amazing pagoda where a reclining Buddha was carved into a sandstone rock, as well as a visit to the holy waters where along the way we met an adorable 88 year old nun. Then we’ll finish the day at Beng Mealea, one of several ancient temples we visited during our stay.
xo,gg
P.S. Just a quick note that I’m happy to report I’ve been published again in the magazine, Bella Grace! I submitted a blog posting from awhile ago…Taming the Wild…my life adventure with natural curly hair! Hmm…perhaps a giveaway in the making? Stay tuned!
So fascinating, Robin. I just love the first photo of the steps. I would even attempt to climb them just for the exploration of all the exciting treasures and people you encountered. They look like they are calling you.
The pagoda, wow! Such beautiful detail and such work carrying supplies up.
Love the woman and son and that you were able to give them the gift of the Polaroids. So special.
So, RR ate road kill along with those wonderful biscuits from grandma and cake from mom, fresh peaches and a nice nap on the handmade quilt with your kitty. Who would guess?
How high is the mountain and climb up the steps to the village?
Congratulations for your publication in bella Grace! I am soooo proud of you. I can certainly relate, too. You are amazing, my dear friend.
Look at your confidence level. Look at how far you’ve evolved! More layers uncovered and blossoming. Such an honor to watch your jouney into yourself. You are such an inspiration.
Much love.
XO
The mountain is about 1,500 feet…and my very first steps made my mind returned to the three days of hiking nothing but steps on the Inca Trail in Peru a number of years ago! But of course no comparison…but the heat and humidity was another factor. Not bad…but not a walk in the park either! LOL on the road kill! I used to cry when my dad would go hunting and didn’t take me…so when I did get to go it was very special. For some reason it didn’t bother me that he would kill the squirrels or the rabbits, but I would sob when he killed a quail. So he rarely did that! Ha! Always enjoy your comments Lisa! Thank you so much!
Those pictures say it all. What an experience and what a beauty in its own way. The renovation is pure art and devotion. What you saw in those few hours is amazing. ‘We’ have no clue what is going on in most parts of the world. Most of the times we hear the ugly things and here you are, ‘opening’ a door and walking into a world where people take time for each other and have a good life. (with all their struggles like we have)
Thank you for sharing your experience and fabulous pictures. Congratulations with the magazine. Love the presentation.
Love and hugs.
I think about your statement “we have no clue what is going on in most parts of the world…” all the time. I find my mind wandering when I’m back in the states of what is happening in various parts of the world with all the different cultures and to just be able to dip in and out is just amazing! I think more about it at night when I settle in at bedtime and think of the parts of the world that are just waking up…I think the more you see and experience the more special it all becomes! Always enjoy your visits Astrid! Thank you so much!
It really IS a world few of us ever see, Robin, let alone visit. And for this alone, we are fortunate to have your eyes and words to tell this story. Thank you. We have a Shutterchance friend who lives in the back country of Thailand and often finds hidden temples in the jungle nearby. i know if you lived there…where you visited in Cambodia…you’d be on photo hunts and people visits all the time. You’d write a book!
In the meantime, congrats on your “Taming the Wild.” I believe it’s a portent of things yet to come?!
Thanks Ginnie! Always a cheerleader for me!! My heart has really been touched with Cambodia…and there are many people writing the story…but I do see myself in the future staying a little longer in hopes of somehow making a difference. Thank you my dear!
I am so amazed by the stories and your photographs sweet cousin! I am thankful to have you share this. Congratulations on being published! I have to read that. I have the same hair and tame it with Keratin to straighten.
Thrilled that you have popped in on my little blog space! I loved your personal note…and yes, we must have gotten all these curls on the Craighead side of the family for sure! Thanks so much!! xoxo
First, congratulations on being published Robin. Always a thrill to see your own work in print! Looking forward to reading it. I am in love with this post. And to have a piece from the old temple – oh what I would give to have a piece. The ultimate souvenir. In a way, sad that they destroyed the old temple. Wonder what it looked like? The critter..an amazing shot. Anxiously awaiting part two!
Thanks Cathy! Gosh…you made my day…knowing how much you have traveled in this area! I actually didn’t pick up on the reason for the restoration, but it appeared that it was only covered with those pieces you see on the ground…and not any of the special carvings/art work. So perhaps they received financial support to re-do it? Not sure…but I think the building itself had a good structure and they were able to keep a lot of it! Can’t wait to return and see how much has been completed and to see what it looks like. You must put this on your “to be experienced” the next time you visit Cambodia!
Stunning beauty. Thank you so much for taking us along on you travel journeys. Congrats on being published in Bella Grace! You are unstoppable so you just keeping going GG. Love and hugs. XoXo
Thank you my sweet!!! Love you!
Congratulations! So happy for you . Well done.
Again beautiful pictures which alone tell volumes. Finding all this treasures along the way. I just love your encounters and interactions with people. The way they open up for you in front of your camera shows how much respect and personal interest you have for them.
Thanks for such kind words Karen!! So appreciated!! xo
I can imagine how you would love to stay in these special places for long periods of time, getting to know the families and history and relaxing into the land a little but it is truly amazing how much you inhale and experience in the visits you make and the people you meet and the photos you take. And then you write and share, document and post and we get to inhale and experience, I just love how it all works when we connect. Wonderful images and information … also big high fives on the Bella Grace curly hair piece, only you could go from that to critter cooking without missing a beat!
LOL! Love your comments! THANK YOU! I thrive to bring diversity, ha ha! xoxo
What a wonderful journey and beautiful photos!
Thank you for sharing
Have a serene new week.
Em Ci
Thanks so much for your visit again Em Ci! You too!
First of all, your photographs make me swoon, every. single. one. Secondly, congrats on being published in Bella Grace! I subscribe to that glorious publication. I read your article. Didn’t connect it was you. Way to go chickie! That’s awesome.
Oh…thank you so much Margie! So appreciate our new connection!
oh! That was you! ?! SO excited to know:)
I love your traveling heart and how you bring it back to share with the rest of us.
Such a brave heart:)
Thanks for living your dream out loud, Robin.
-Jennifer
Oh another great article! I so love the fact they maintain the old Pagodas! and so beautifully done, all the detail, this guy knew what he was doing for sure! and you got a little piece the the old one! lucky you! well girl you earned it! all that hit, investigation and sweating deserved en energetic souvenir ;).
I loved the nun story, people that move on no matter how hard life turns,,, the don’t choose the easy way, just lay down and wait for the miracle to come… no they work and work and work to provide for they children its really motivating, why do we complain sometimes? this stories are reminders… for people like me for people like us…
Thank you for sharing!
I came to this post after the second part but of course if explained a lot and also was as rich as ever in detail and locality. So beautiful…….I would love to go but probably won’t so I am hanging on your every image and word!!! Thank you for sharing it all so generously……x