It’s taken me a few days to figure out my approach on how to explain six nights and seven days on the Rio Coco. So I’m just going to start by keeping it real…to be totally honest and not to make this sound like a dream vacation floating along a nice little river in Nicaragua. This trip was hard. H-A-R-D as in taking a great deal of endurance and effort.
You see…there wasn’t a book to read on how to survive a week on the Rio Coco, nor were there any internet sites to tell you what to take and what not to take or what to expect. So I’m thinking for this post I should just get it all out of my system by telling you how hard those six nights and seven days were and then the following posts you can see all the beauty along the Rio Coco and read all about the indigenous villages we visited looking for patients for the upcoming medical mission.
I’m going to cover a few things like clothes, food, accommodations, weather…the important basics one would want to know about…
Clothing: Besides one pair of slip on Sketchers, I purchased a pair of rubber boots in Jinotega as instructed by our leader of this journey. I assumed they would be needed for getting in and out of the boat…I had no clue the day I purchased those boots how much I would need them. Every village we visited, and there were 14 of them, the walk was straight up a cliff and often muddy and very slippery. It was the very first village with those Sketchers and one fall (my camera covered with mud) to know those boots were needed at all times. While the nights were chilly the days were hot and sitting in a boat all day under the baking sun takes its toll. Thank goodness for my UPF rated shirts (they really do work!) and my Tilley hat. Both are worth every penny! Unfortunately, my hands were burned to a crisp even while covering them constantly with SPF 70. I really did come close on several occasions to just jumping in the river to cool off…but not only were there crocodiles, but off and on we’d see a bloated dead cow or pig floating along in the river. No thank you.
Food: Now keep in mind that only a week or so prior to leaving for this trip, I had just finished up two weeks of mega antibiotics to kill the h pylori in my body that started when I got sick in Morocco or perhaps in Myanmar…who knows. So I was pretty freaked out about eating anything in Nicaragua, even if someone had cooked the hell out of it. Well guess what’s the signature food in the villages along the Rio Coco? Rice, beans and tortillas…not a big fan. So for seven days and six nights I ate protein bars, crackers, cookies and beef jerky. Let me tell you…that got old real fast…not to mention mornings filled with nausea from not having real food in my stomach. On the fifth morning my body couldn’t take it any longer and I got sick minutes before getting into the boat. Of course that’s the morning we were heading towards a major pass which happened to be the section of the Rio Coco with fast rapids, as well as sharp volcanic rock on both sides of the pass. This is where we all had to get out of the boat, walk over these sharp volcanic rock as we watched heroic efforts being made by our boat drivers and other local villagers as they maneuvered our boat through the pass. (More on that in a future post.)
Bedding: I knew a hammock was involved (as we had been told to bring one) and I could handle that…especially the Hennessy hammock we purchased. What I liked about them the most is that you could basically zip yourself up and not have to worry about mosquitoes or any other flying objects entering your sleeping space. (I don’t do bugs very well.) Plus it even had a little overhead hook to attach your flashlight for reading. I really needed that during all those sleepless nights as I read Cheryl Strayed’s book, Wild. (Excellent by the way and so appropriate for the occasion!) But I’ll get to sleepless nights in a bit. Hammocks are perfect if you have something to hang them from. So for three of the six nights I zipped myself up in my hammock and layed on a cot. The other three nights we hung from rafters and just about froze to death. The temperatures found on the internet were nothing like reality. So I slept with almost every piece of clothing I owned trying to keep warm for those three nights. Interesting enough, I never experienced one mosquito…only cockroaches, bats, and other flying insects that would create major air turbulence as they flew by my head.
Accommodations: The first building where we spent the night was a pig slaughtering house when it needed to be, a school room during the day and of course a rented building at night for guests. On one side of this building was a pig pen and the other a small market. The sleepless night came from constant (and I mean constant) sounds from all the animals. The squealing pigs, the barking dogs, the cock-a-doodle-doo chorus from all the village roosters, the baby calf who couldn’t get to it’s mother, the dog chasing the pigs..I could go on and on. On top of that…it poured rain and guess what kind of roof our building had? Yep, a tin roof. (Which is very cool actually, but not when coupled with the animal chorus.) Between being cold, the rain and all the animal noises, I didn’t sleep at all the first night nor for two nights after that. By the fourth night ambien had become my new best friend. There are more stories such as the rock out night at the Moravian church, but you get the picture. Have you ever heard a squealing pig?
Bathrooms: I was expecting outhouses and after using them on the trek in Myanmar, I didn’t foresee any issues. Well let me tell you…there is no comparison between the outhouses in Myanmar and the outhouses along the Rio Coco. Here the outhouses were smelly, filthy and scary…especially at night. And I bet you’re thinking about right now…why would you use an outhouse when you could just go in the bushes? Well keep in mind we’re in villages and people use outhouses. There’s no squatting in the village. After the fourth night on the river, I had to have a “shower.” A “shower” consisted of a big bucket of cloudy water with a cup. I had refrained from taking one because the water appeared so dirty. But after a while you give up and let me tell you…that was the best “shower” ever. I think that’s when I saw the tadpoles swimming around in the toilet that unfortunately never worked for the three nights we stayed at that location…
There’s so much more…but I think you get the picture…
So are ya ready to head down the Rio Coco and learn more?
Sometimes we just HAVE to know the downside of these things, Robin…actually, of almost everything, including relationships, lest we totally conjure up everything but reality. So thank you for bringing us to our senses while following your journey. We really have it good, don’t we!
Your honesty will help us see everything else ahead with new eyes. Thank you.
I love what you said…so true! Thanks so much Ginnie!
Girl, I knew right from the beginning of talking with you & Bob about this trip that there was no way in the world that I would ever be up for an adventure like that, not even in my younger, crazier days. With all your travels to such amazing places already, this goes to show that you can be only so prepared and the rest is reaction, prayer and keeping your fingers crossed.
Thanks for sharing it all … the good, the bad and the ugly!
Reaction, prayer and keeping fingers crossed is exactly right! Thank you Susan!
Looking forward to more on this adventure. You have increased my awareness of ‘another’ world. And by-the-way, the photo with the two pigs and their feathered friend, love it. Contrast with a hint of colors. You are super talented.
Thanks Angie! As soon as I saw that chicken I knew the colors would be perfect! Appreciate your visit and the sharing on FB!
Robin, I recently read an article in our local newspaper about a young man of faith who went on a mission trip and came home deeply disillusioned about his power to effect the changes he sought to help make, What struck me most was that the beauty of youth, his idealism, was also his downfall. You write a true picture – not one all gussied up for us to absorb as though helping is easy. People often remark about my “goodness” in helping to care for my mother. But, though I am committed to my mission as you are to yours, there is often nothing saintly nor easy about service. Thank you for setting the stage for your future posts with this honest view of life on the Rio Coco – I do get the picture (and it’s kinda freaking me out!).
LOL! Often ignorance is bliss, right? Now that I’ve looked back on it..it kinda freaks me out too! I so appreciate your thoughts and your comparison to the service you provide for your mom. There isn’t anything easy about that kind of service. Thanks always for your visit and wonderful comments!
Oh My Dear Robin,
Thank you for your true honesty and photos of this realistic journey you and Bob experienced. I am really proud of you both for your strength, honesty and heart. I hope you didn’t get too hurt falling and your hands are ok from the burns.
You can easily stay at a 4 star hotel and your heart and compassion drive you to experience the type of travel not a lot of people (espcially our age) would want to endure. It takes special people to do this and I am honored to know you and appreciate all you do and what you share. You certainly make a difference. The good, the bad and the ugly…It was a great introduction to your journey. Love the photographs and feel for you. Your post and photographs are a wonderful prelude and I look forward to the following.
PS – March 4 update??
xoxoxoxoxo
Nothing hurt except for a little bruised ego since this was the first trip up the cliff! But I shook it off, cleaned up my camera and continued on! Thanks always for following along and your comments. So appreciate the friendship. As soon as I hit the update button I realized I failed to give the response to the March 4th update! Coming up!
Robin well done! It’s important that we almost smell that place and I think I do now!!! My own most challenging situation was in Cuba for a month. My own lack of ability to adapt was awful!! But also wonderful and enlightening and colourful. I found myself promising that I wouldn’t repeat it though! Can’t wait to see what happened next……
Thanks Catherine! You got it right on the smell! Haven’t been around that many pigs, cows, and chickens…well…probably ever! Much less those horrid outhouses! 🙂 Oh my…one day I must hear all about your Cuba experience! Thinking of going there this year, but not anything challenging…just to soak in the area before it changes…Thank you always for your visits and comments!
Curisoty and courage, sprinkled with a little adventure makes you expand beyond familiar boundries, compelling you to step out from behind yourself to see your life from a different perspective. The gift you gave to the villagers was admirable, but the gift you gave to yourself was priceless. I am honored to call you a friend.
You always put it in perspective! Thank you! Priceless indeed my dear!
WOW, all I can say is YOU, my sweet Frissy, are a MUCH stronger woman than I. There is NO way in hell that I could have survived that trip. I am so PROUD of you. Your my hero and an angel to many. Thank you for sharing everything about your journey into the “wild.” Can’t wait to see you again and hear more real soon… XoXo
As I mentioned in a previous comment…I guess ignorance is bliss! I knew it would be difficult…but what an eye opener! Thank you always for commenting….Looking forward to seeing you soon! xoxoxo
I am just not a world traveler….spoiled for sure aren’t we. What a real, rugged, smack in your face journey you had.
So spoiled in so many ways! I like that…real, rugged and a smack in the face journey! Thanks for your visit Donna!
I took time to read it all, also the comments and your replies. All I can say: this was a culture SHOCK, with the emphasis on SHOCK. Your many many travels all over the world saved you here to survive those 7days/6 nights. Your brain kind of went in survival mode and I think you did all the right things. A body needs to adjust. AND in the back of your mind….and that takes ‘a little longer’ than 6 nights.
I think it is a miracle that you got there out ‘unharmed’. Our body is much too civilized, read this as: over the years we cleaned our self so well with soap that any kind of filth is happy to jump on us and stay there.
We know what harm can be done by a filthy environment, the body of the locals are ‘used’ to it. The immune system works different. Than the constant sound of animals, all the nerves were awake 24/7….
You are a trooper and honest that after you came home, you sat down and thought ‘what the hell did I just experience’…. Your pictures will tell the story too. Your way of writing will make it that we ‘get the picture’ the smell…..well we have to kind of guess.
I might be wrong in what I think. I do enjoy all the pictures and your stories.
That rooster, man alive the way he walks, he is emperor of the village.
Love and hugs
Oh how we think so much alike! I totally agree that the brain just takes over and it’s only afterwards when there’s been time to reflect…that you think? I just did what? But you’re so right how the locals are so used to their daily life and then plunk down a gringo who isn’t and you have one big experience! Visiting for a day is one thing…living it for seven was something else. I so had to laugh…I totally agree about that rooster. I thought the same thing…but I love your description…the emperor of the village! So true! Thank you always…love your thoughts!
I think experiences like these makes us a better person. Also less self centered. And be able to adapt in the most ‘ridiculous’ situations (from our point of view of course)
However the life that you just entered in Nicaragua was one of the most extreme and I think a natural thing to do is start comparing with our own life and that is dangerous, for there is no comparing. It is ‘live with it or go’….
Thank you Robin, your blog is one of the three blogs I really really take time to read and look at your incredible pictures. Also the comments and replies are well read.
Love and hugs
Wow…I feel so honored Astrid! Thank you so much for your kind words. And once again…everything you said? My thoughts exactly. I know for me it truly makes me think and become more aware of so many things in life. Big hugs and lots of love heading across the pond to you and Ginnie!
What can I say or possibly add to all the comments above? It took me some time to digest your very first describtion of what must have been an incredible trip. You are a trooper and I am in awe of your courage and stamina. I am not sure what would be worse for me – outhouse or hammock? Did that a 100 years ago trekking in the “Golden Triangle” and promised to never ever do it again.
Your pictures are wonderful – pigs and dogs sharing ! So typical and gives such a good impression of the place you have been.
Looking forward to hearing and especially seeing more! Hope you recovered a little by now..
LOL…it’s taken me time to digest it too! Oh can’t wait for the day we can sit down with a glass of wine and I can hear all about your trekking in the Golden Triangle! Yes, I’m absolutely recovering…especially in the amazing environment of my Arizona home. Thank you!!! xo
Superb post and very enlightening, the sad tragedy is that this is mirrored in so many places around the world, now that is truly tragic.