It’s was like boarding the magic carpet and being transported back a thousand years. The Medina of Fez, Morocco where little has changed. The world’s largest car-free urban zone where the transporting of goods is still by donkeys, mules and handcarts. Lots and lots of them. It’s still hard for me to wrap my head around being in a place that’s over 1,200 years old, especially coming from cities like Casablanca and Rabat where there’s so much western influence.
Surrounded by five miles of fortified walls, it’s one of the most complex labyrinth cities in the world. A guide is a must, as it’s nearly impossible to find your own way around. What I adore about traveling is finding the real artisans…the ones who come from families deeply rooted in their craft dating back generations. The ability to interact, “talk” and get up close and personal with the artisans and their work? Priceless!
Just to share a few…
You may be familiar with brocade, a rich fabric (usually used for upholstery) woven with a raised pattern, typically with gold or silver thread. It takes a full day of work and lots of skill to make a little over three feet of brocade. Today, the future of this refined craft is threatened. Thankfully in a small workshop owned by the undisputed master Abdelkhader El Ouazzani pictured below, the craft is still practiced.
The Medina is also home to three ancient leather tanneries where washing, treating, smoothing, and coloring animal skins into soft, leather goods has happened for over a thousand years. Today, much of the leather production is carried out in factories to keep up with the demand which makes viewing these ancient tanneries that much more rewarding.
Looking down…a capture of the hides (sheep, goats, cows and camels) just pulled from the vats makes for an amazing abstract!
Skins are soaked for two to three days in large vats containing a mixture of cow urine, quicklime, water, and salt. This will loosen the excess fat, flesh, and hair that remain on the skins. Once the skins have been cleaned, they are laid out to dry on the surrounding rooftop terraces. Once dried they spend time in another set of vats where they’re washed and soaked in a mixture of water and pigeon shit in order to make the skins soft. The tanner then uses his bare feet to knead the skins for up to three hours to achieve the desired softness. An amazing process and not for the fainthearted!
Watching the tanners finish up their day, it’s amazing to think how hard of a life they must have…having one of the dirtiest professions within Fez…and so labor intensive. Once again their skills are passed down from generation to generation…but for how long?
Not far from the section of the Medina known for its coppersmiths (trust me…you’ll know it…just listen for the constant banging!) lies Rue Mechatine. Combs are made of cattle horns, which are bought from the city’s slaughterhouses and tanneries. A complex production chain turning out combs, utensils and jewelry. The artisan uses a stove to heat the horn, tongs to hold it, scissors to cut off extra parts or bumps, a fire or gas stove to heat it, and a file and ash to polish it. Today, the name Mechatine only designates the place, because the street only has one master craftsman left. Over 80 years old, he still works in a small workshop without an apprentice, continuing the trade that requires great skills and meticulous workmanship. Here the master, Mohammed Saili, holds my purchase..one of his hamsa key chains.
The hamsa is one of the most popular amulets in the world of Islam and the symbol of patience, loyalty, faith and resistance against difficulties.
So our troubles started once I mistakenly put my hamsa key chain in my suitcase instead of my backpack and things went downhill from there. But before we get into difficult times, just want to share a few more of my favorite captures from Fez in the next post. Just photos, not much writing, so it’ll be a quick one! Thanks for making it through this long post!
For those of you in the USA…Happy Fourth of July!!
oh wow….this looks like time travel!
such an ancient looking present, tucked away from the ravages of time.
thanks for sharing the stark beauty of this treasure,
Jennifer
Time travel is right! Thanks Jennifer!
Fascinating, Robin, just fascinating and such wonderful photos.
Amazing that time stands still. I don’t know how you pick the places you visit but I can’t wait to sit down with you one day soon and talk to you.
Can’t wait to find out the rest if the saga, of course now that ai know you’re safe.
Thanks for sharing.
XOXO
I’ll look forward to that day! It will come! Thanks always Lisa!
To be honest, Robin, I have never had a strong desire to visit Morocco, in spite of how close it is to me these days (approx. a 3-hr. flight). However, having seen these images and reading your words, it wouldn’t take much to change my mind! I love seeing everything through YOUR eyes!
That’s what I love about where you live! So close to so much adventure!! Thank you!
Just amazing. Thanks so much for sharing your travels and helping us understand the different cultures around the world. AMAZING!!! XoXo
This is what I LOVE to do – LEARN and SHARE! Thank you!!
Absolutely stunning images! You really managed to capture the atmosphere of the place and taking us hundred of years back to a place where time seems to have come to a standstill. Working in a tannerie is a bone breaking job and to stand the smell -as you were pointing out -not for the fainthearted. Can’t wait to see more pictures!
Thanks Karen. I know…As spoiled as we are here in the USA…I can’t imagine anyone ever doing that job and to think it’s been going on for so long! More photos coming! You’re going to love Chefchaouen!
These are absolute fabulous pictures. You saw a beautiful part of the world again. Thank you for sharing your travels. The picture with the hides are wonderful.
So happy that I am fortunate enough to travel and then share! Thanks so much Astrid!
Painterly photographs, Robin. So rich in dimension and atmosphere!
Thanks bunches Elena!
Amazing photos, and the details of Fez are incredible. It is like you traveled back in time. I am trying to imagine the smell of cow urine and pigeon shit, and having to work in that with the sun beating down on you all day long. Very tough job! Love the warm smile of master Mohammed, and I am confident you will not make the mistake of putting your hamsa in your suite case, again. Yikes!! Love you! xoxoxo
When you come inside the tannery you’re given a sprig of mint to put under your nose…but after awhile even that doesn’t do anything and you just endure! As you’ll learn…actually I think the hamsa in my suitcase ended up being a very good thing! Stay tuned!
I love the muted earth shades in variety of tones and then a pop or two of color. Stunning! Great photos. Angie
Thanks Angie for visiting and commenting!
A very full, rich, fasinating post … thanks for the lessons and the wonderful images.
Thanks Susan!
Super images Robin, they just transport you right there!
Thank you Marie! Coming from such a professional photographer as yourself, you made my day!
Stunning images Robin and now? Yes I want to go too!!!
If you ever decide to go…we must talk! Thanks you Catherine!!