About twenty miles north of Mai Chau…high in the clouds…you’ll find the ethnic village Pa Co…home of the H’mong minority groups. It was a walking tour to take in the village life and observe their culture and lifestyle. Just getting there on that particular day was not for the faint of heart…with all that fog…making visibility very difficult.
Prior to departure, our guide had mentioned that people in the village made their own paper…so of course being a paper lover (ok…quasi paper hoarder) I was all over this opportunity to see their paper making process. But as it turned out…it was the unexpected discovery of learning about batik that made this visit extra special.
There are a number of different tribes among the H’mong and in this case we visited the Blue H’mong…known for their design that you see above on the women’s and young girl’s skirts. The batik process starts with making the cloth from hemp, as well as using cotton and other synthetics. Designs are then drawn in bees wax on the undyed cloth and then dipped in indigo dye. What makes the process so lengthy is not only the design work, but the amount of time that it takes to dry in the sun, then dipped, then repeated again and again (up to a hundred times in some cases) until it reaches the desired color. Once completed, the material is often decorated with embroidery and then incorporated into a skirt or perhaps a baby sling or sleeves to a blouse. But I’ll come back to the process in a minute.
As we made our way into the village we first came across a woman making paper. Even though I’ve made paper myself and viewed the process in other countries…paper making always fascinates me.
The good news was our guide found a home where I could make a purchase. It isn’t decorative…very basic…as they are making paper based on their every day need.
One of my most favorite experiences while traveling is just walking and observing…taking in daily life in these villages.
post office
gas pump
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Of course a visit isn’t complete until you pass by a school…so adorable…
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A visit to a traditional home…
A more modern home…with sleeping quarters on the far right…
Of course rice wine and tea were served in the living room area…along with a photo session with the polaroid printer…
And before we left, Ms. Ganh (above) also showed me some of her batik which of course I fell in love with this old piece that I purchased…the yellow gold markings are embroidery.
Notice to the left of the hanging skirt…strips of batik that will be used for making clothes…
The indigo dying process…the last step in the process…
But then the unexpected…
Upon arrival we had stopped and visited a home along the way to look at some batik pieces, but our guide suggested that we wait to purchase at the home I shared above. Not quite satisfied…I asked if we could stop again at this house on our way out…and the timing was absolutely perfect…batik in the making!
A little filming to show the process…complete with music from his radio! The pen-like tool used…called a tjanting…is dipped into hot liquid wax…and used for drawing the designs. The cloth then resists the dye during the indigo dipping process. There’s meaning to the various symbols that are drawn and I’ve learned through more research that the circular pattern represents the snail which in turn represents family.
We had a wonderful interaction with this family…the gentleman was a retired police officer who was keeping this hundred year tradition alive…along with his wife adding the embroidery to the batik pieces. I just couldn’t be happier with my purchases of several square pieces, as well as a piece that could be used as a table runner.
The perfect addition to the bohemian style I adore! I’m not sure yet exactly how I’ll use these batik pieces…perhaps frame one and perhaps use the other pieces as table toppers or runners…who knows! I’ve really enjoyed researching and learning more about this process from the internet…which means I must return to Pa Co one day and learn more! <smile>
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On a side note…I had hoped to publish more over the past couple of weeks…but while in Virginia visiting my mom I learned that my blog site had been hacked. That was very upsetting…and being one that isn’t very literate at all on code and programs…well let’s just say it created lots of angst. I’m 99.999 percent comfortable that it’s all cleaned up, more secured measures are in place and a more complex password installed. What an experience. Whew! So this week please pardon my flurry to finish up a couple more posts…because Cambodia is calling my name! More real soon!
So much beauty but first, I have to ask, with such heavy fog was the weather warm or chilly? I want to go back through all the wonderful images and have the correct feeling in my body.
Just the word indigo, like twilight, has seemed like magic to me since I was a kid so seeing the incredible designs on the skirts is such a treat and visiting the homes along with you is special, too.
As always, you share and teach/inform in a gentle way, all your photo & videos are so terrific and, yes, adorable kids!
Good question…yes, chilly…and from someone coming from the desert…well chilly can be cold, ha! I have always felt that way about “indigo” too! Guess it’s my hippy/bohemian side that comes out! Thank you so much SusanMarie…always enjoy your comments and visits!
Robin, So sorry you had the hassle associated with the hacking offense (I’ve had a similar problem and were it not for my computer expert son I don’t know what I would have done – he keeps our security locked down tight!). Now, on to your wonderful description of this tribe and the batik process . . . what a joy to read. I am always fascinated with the process of any craft, it’s the making that matters to me, not so much the finished project. Of course, these fabrics are gorgeous works of art. I’ve made many quilts using batik fabrics but never any as beautiful as these. I like your descriptive word – bohemian – this fits both you and the fabric in a most positive way. Of course, my favorite is the video of the school girls . A giggle and a smile are universal. A joy to see how you are using your polaroid-type camera/film to bring such a personal connection on your travels. Your post did me a world of good (as I cannot get to sleep tonight, and am at least enjoying some really good reading!).
Oh gosh…I can’t even begin to explain what feelings emerge when your account is hacked. It really could’ve been a lot worse, but still…so much angst! How fortunate to have computer gurus available to help out! I totally understand about sleeping issues…often I wake up at 2:00 or 3:00 in the morning and it’s a bitch to fall back to sleep and I find myself reaching for my iPad to pass time away. I hear that isn’t the thing to do…but when one is so restless you do what works the best. Thanks for your beautiful remarks…your words always make my day!
Of all the blogs in the world that coulda-shoulda been hacked, why was it yours, dear Robin??? I’m so sorry. Regardless, here you are picking up from where you last left off, reliving your stories for us once again. Thank you. I particularly loved the little pig in its own little sty. But those batik designs…so indigenous and tribal, reminding me of all the years ago when I worked with the Cheyenne Native Americans. And the traditional homes…I closed my eyes and could feel it all.
Yes, for some reason someone decided to pick on my blog! It infuriates me because most bloggers don’t sell anything…just sharing our stories with others so what does someone/something get out of it? Anyway, I do think the measures I’ve taken will really keep the lid on things. “Indigenous and tribal” – perfect words for this particular type of batik. I recall your work in Peru, but not about your work with the CNA…how awesome! Thank you always for your visits and comments! Oh, yes…I lOVED that little piglet too!
I agree with SusanMarie about the gentle way you share. This touches me too. Somehow I feel that I am you observing these things, with the same wonder and admiration. The photographs and videos are enlightening and perfect. The glimpse into everyday life in this village is humbling and maybe even transformative. Slow craft like this with such glorious results … total inspiration. Maybe you could stretch a square on a stretched canvas? xoxo
Oh, what a wonderful idea about using as a stretched canvas! Thank you!! This is what I so love about travel…I return home to our luxuries and it always makes me think how spoiled and fortunate we are in this country. I recall my very first trip to South America now almost 15 or 20 years ago…after hiking the Inca Trail in Peru. I came home and sat in my bathroom for hours in total appreciation! We need that kind of exposure to really be thankful for what we have. Having just typed that…my mind goes to the people in Flint, Michigan…how in the world could this happen here in our own country. Like others…it totally disgusts me. But to end on a more positive note…THANK YOU for always lifting me up with your comments! xoxo
Oh yes Flint. How can this be, around the corner!? It is heartbreaking.
Fantastic post. Makes me miss Singapore and all my Asian travels. I too am drawn to the batik (esp the blue) and hill tribe fabrics and collected them along the way. I just need to figure out what to do with them. Sorry about the hacked account – that is scary! Glad it is fixed and you did not lose anything!
Thank you Cathy! I can only imagine your collection with everywhere you have been and discovered! Please share if you have any creative ideas on what to do with them…I love the idea that Ruth mentioned above with the stretched canvas!
Loved everything about this post. The photos of the people going about their everyday life, the colors, the little pig and the video and especially how you describe your travel visits. I’ve never been outside of the United States, but feel like I’ve seen the world just by following your blog posts.. Safe travels GG. See you again soon. Love you! xoxo
Thanks VK! You always make me feel good. xoxo!!
Your images are stunning, you capture the heart of the people and place.
Thanks Abby! So appreciated!
A wealth of beauty! THe mist, the people, creatures;marvelous.
A read a book about the H’mong culture a few years back, and your images help to round my admiration for this fascinating culture.
Un magnifique reportage… Une belle expérience personnelle. Et de belles photos aussi!
Merci pour le partage.
How come that I missed this post? Love every single picture and word. I am so fascinated by the amazing skills and the basic tools this people use to make such incredibly beautiful pieces of art.
Your picture are wonderful and amazing- as usual!