A few of my favorite places in Oaxaca Centro, Mexico
Oaxaca Graphic Arts Institute
Not only a museum but also a library with an enormous collection of literature, music and films dedicate to the arts. Being a book lover – especially photography – I could’ve spent hours there. It’s also the home to the Alvarez Bravo Photographic Centre. The photography section here makes ICP (International Center for Photography) in New York City look tiny in comparison. I plan to return one day and spend days just browsing through books and getting inspired. A small selection of their photography magazine section pictured below. ICP – you gotta step up your game!
Oaxaca Textile Museum
As the name implies the museum is designed to show the processes and techniques that go into making the various different textiles in Oaxaca. As a lover of textiles from all over the world, I was particularly excited to view Porfirio Gutierrez’s exhibition, El Ritual de los Buenos – The Ritual of Dreams. As a master weaver he pays homage to the “petate” – a mat made from palm leaves – a technique that has been used for thousands of years.
These mats are used to sleep on, kneel on, as well as presenting their market goods. I love Porfirio’s explanation below.
The entire day with Porfirio’s family in Teotitlan del Valle outside of Oaxaca Centro was so interesting and one I’ll share in a separate post. I’ll write more about the pieces laying on top of the “petate” as shown in the image above.
Centro Cultural San Pablo
My favorite. Just to see the restoration of this old monastery is reason enough to visit. As you enter the large knotted metal gates you have this feeling you’re in for a treat. The complex is filled with a museum, exhibition space, a study center, and restaurant – all with amazing design touches. On top of all that there’s exhibits specific to the indigenous and vibrant cultures of Oaxaca. Truly special. The green colored cantera stone as shown in the image below is scattered throughout in the buildings of Oaxaca Centro.
Santa Domingo Cultural Center
My quick dip into Oaxaca Centro didn’t allow enough time to explore this center, but articles indicate this is a must see. So next trip!
Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Oaxaca
Another very interesting restored building, but unfortunately only a couple of small exhibitions. Not sure of the reason, perhaps in the process of new work arriving, but nevertheless a treat to walk through and photograph. Often the building and grounds are the exhibit – like I found in one of their courtyards – below.
Andares del Arte Popular
A must for shopping. Once again a beautiful building with lots of rooms selling everything from textiles to ceramics all made from local artisans.
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Favorite Restaurants:
Totally blown away by the level of sophistication in the restaurants in this city.
Origen – My absolute favorite. The atmosphere, the art, the staff, and the flavorful food. The chef here has taken Oaxacan food to the next level for sure. Pricey by Mexican standards, but boy do they deliver. Oh, and the art. Just the lighting in the dining area (above) had me at hello. And then some of the collage pieces like this one:
Casa Oaxaca – Wonderful atmosphere and of course it didn’t hurt to sit on the upstairs patio and watch the full moon rise. Best grilled octopus ever.
La Olla – If you’re looking for atmosphere this isn’t it, but fresh quality ingredients makes this place a winner.
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Best Breakfast:
Las Casa de Mis Recuerdos Bed & Breakfast – no doubt Conchita and her husband (owners) know their way around in the kitchen. A lovely B&B where you can eat breakfast and not worry at all about being hungry until dinner time! Highly recommend staying here! Quiet, cozy and very little English spoken. Image above of Conchita under the watchful eye of her mother.
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Karen says
Sounds like an interesting place to visit. Wonderful pictures.
gotham girl says
Thanks dear! You would love it there! So much ART and excellent FOOD! 🙂
Astrid says
What a joy to be here and it looks like this is a very soulful place. I love your photography. The one of the tiles and your shoes HA… it gives scale and I like your shoes :). The library looks very organized and what a place to forget time. Love and hugs.
gotham girl says
Yes, my shoes! I really like them too! I have such a hard time finding ones that I like and that will fit with my bunions. It’s hell getting old, ha! Thanks always…we all inspire each other! You two would LOVE this city. Hugs and love back at ya!
Ginnie says
Ditto to what Astrid has said above! I am always inspired by how you SEE things. And in the process, we’re the lucky ones who get to see places in the world we’ll never visit apart from you. Thank you.
gotham girl says
And ditto right back…there’s not enough time in our lives to see it all and I so love seeing the parts of Europe through both you and Astrid’s eyes too! Thank you!!
Lisa Bader says
I love each and every one and the stories you share with them.
I too, love seeing the world through your eyes.
I looked up Oaxaca on the map and wonder how you know how to find these little places in the world. Is it your friend that lives in MX?
I love the culture and people there. The art is beautiful. So love loval artisians and staying in the heart of the locals, eat where they eat, etc.
I saw a photo of a young couple who just got engaged In Oaxaca and the young man had what looked like the patate wrapped around him. I was so thrilled to know what it is and it’s history.
Thank you!
gotham girl says
Thanks Lisa! Actually I learned about Oaxaca when I went to Mexico when I was 16 and spent a month for language immersion. (Not that I remember much all these years later, except for finding out the location of the bathroom and how to order a beer, ha ha!) We didn’t go to Oaxaca then, but it was a city of consideration. But Oaxaca is really known for their arts and it’s been on my list for a long time. It was just a dip in to see if it was a location I’d want to return to. The answer is YES! I loved the story and history about the petate and it doesn’t surprise me at all that it would be included in a wedding ceremony based on the significance of it in their culture. Wonderful! Love that we all learn something! Thanks bunches for your thoughts! ❤️
Susan says
Many lovely images, my favorite and where I would spend a whole lot of time is the monastery, so peaceful, but I am also drawn to those ceramics on the wall! All so inspiring … thanks for another fine trip through your lens.
xoxo
gotham girl says
Thanks dear! Yes, that place is so meditative and I KNOW you would really love it! Miss you! xoxo
Virginia says
LOVE, LOVE, LOVE this post, and the opportunity to post comments again…! I especially love the story about the petate used from birth to death. We are all on our own journey in this life, and I LOVE anything that is used to support that journey from beginning to end of our lives. I also love the photo of your shoes on the beautiful tiles. Such an informative post. Thanks for sharing. Love you. Xoxo
gotham girl says
Thanks sweetie! I love learning all about cultures and meaning behind things! xoxo
Petra says
It’s interesting to read about how much such a mat woven from straw or dried palm leaves might mean in someone’s life and even culture… Also, when I read those words about how Mr. Gutiérrez as a young boy was covering himself with the woollen rug that his father had woven, I had to think about how we are used to simply going to shop to buy anything we need, it feels so different. Oaxaca definitely looks like a place to come back and explore further, I’ve enjoyed your photos.